The Flatdogs farewell

Our flight back to Lusaka was late on our last day in the valley, meaning we had plenty of time at Flatdogs Camp to enjoy the bar and restaurant.

Like all the best Safari holidays though Flatdogs and The South Luangwa Valley had one last parting surprise.

Three elephant wandered into camp, first by the swimming pool, then into the dining area where our delicious lunch had to be temporarily abandoned whilst these gentle beasts fed off trees in the camp centre.

Not that we ever need an excuse to return - but this would have done the trick if we did!

Close encounters of the Flatdogs kind

Flatdogs is one of our all time favourite camps and like all the best it is the fact that wildlife is always passing through.

Here a baboon passes the front of our tent.

Later, on our last night we heard a Bush Buck making a very load alarm call. Imagine a big dog barking and you have the idea. 

The next day the carcass of a Bush Buck was found 20m from the rear of our tent - the victim of a Leopard.

The hunt is on

Just after viewing a Leopard we stopped for our sundowner G&Ts.

It was almost dark now and as we sipped our drinks, out of the gloom came a feline shape - "A Leopard!".

Then another - "Two Leopards!!" - then a third "They're not Leopards - they're Lion!".

A scrambled pack up of drinks and we were back into the vehicle, slowly following a pride of seven Lion, silently flowing through the bush like a malevolent stream seeking victims to pull under.

The only vehicle around we tracked the pride's progress for almost half an hour before they went to ground. Here, drawing on his years of experience, our guide , Kennedy, switched off the lights and we sat in total darkness. 

The hunt was on.

Around 100m away a herd of Impala were grazing in the dark, totally unaware of the threat gradually crawling towards them.

To sit a matter of metres away from Lion doing what they do best is an experience almost beyond words. The only sound above the breathing of the people next to you in the vehicle is the beating of your heart. You try to breath more shallowly, urging the Lion on, yet terrified for the Impala.

Every now and  again the scene to our front was lit with a light with a red filter which neither prey nor predator can see. Once , as the light came on we looked down to the side of the vehicle to see a young Lion using the truck as cover - just five metres away.

In the event this hunt failed, something spooked the Impala who, amidst a cacophony of snorted alarm calls ran away into the dark. The Lion tough took this in their stride - re-grouped and once again began the silent flow through the bush seeking a meal.

We left them to return to dinner at camp knowing it would not be long before they too were feeding.

Strange behaviour

We spotted this leopard just as we had unfolded the table for our sundowner G&Ts, walking about 150m away. After a speedy pack up we drove to intercept it, finding the cat rolling in the sand and, seemingly eating something from it.

Our guess is the Leopard was eating Impala droppings and rolling in them to get the scent all over its body to help with the hunt it was about to undertake. 

Even our seasoned guide, Kennedy, from Flatdogs hadn't seen this behaviour before though.

Give us a kiss

It's just a log....

Puku family

Puku are fawn-coloured members of the Reduncici (water dependent antelope, often with forward-facing horns) tribe of antelope, with reddish-brown legs, shaggy fur and large, furry ears.

We saw this group with a very young fawn near the river.

Giant Kingfisher

One of our favourite birds - the Giant Kingfisher.

Shall we, shan't we?

Whilst watching the elephant crossing in their dozens, we also watched a herd of Giraffe trying to cross. 

It was clear Giraffe are not decisive decision makers - time after time they started to cross, but the big male at the back then refused, meaning the rest turned around. 

We never did see them cross.

Elephant crossing

Elephant cross the river each evening and return in the morning.

Here, we watched them splash their way back after a night feeding on the opposite bank - often at the expense of gardeners and farmers unfortunately.

This brings them into conflict with humans and there was a real tension about the elephants returning.

Dust in the morning light

Stork formation

This year was certainly the year of the Yellow Billed stork

The elusive Genet

Whilst we often see Genet on evening game drives, these nocturnal mammals are very difficult to photograph as they are constantly on the move and in low light , or simply held in a spot light for a second they are a real challenge. I never use flash as I feel it breaks the magic of the darkness and I worry it might upset the animals we are watching, relying on the softer light of the spotters torch instead.

This little poser was totally different though, sitting patiently whilst we all snapped away.

The one that got away.

The African ground squirrel here was feeding on a sausage tree in the grounds of Tena tena bush camp as we returned from our morning bush walk at about 10.30am. After six kilometers in the growing morning heat we were fairly tired, so I retired to the bar for a Mosi (Zambia's main brand of beer). 

Here, whilst sat chatting about our walk with the guides, we were stopped in mid sentence by the sight of a leopard walking calmly down the main track of the camp, just 20m away.

In a silent fluster of arms, legs and camera equipment we  abandoned our drinks to see where it would go, only to lose it as it passed like a ghost through the staff tents and off into the bush.

Sadly the picture of the squirrel, taken just ten minutes earlier is the only record of that exciting morning, my pictures of the leopard showing nothing but long grass or blurred trees and legs.

The problem with safari holidays is it's difficult to relax as you never know what the bush will reveal next or when.

Yawn! (Another Zambia sunset)

A snake in the grass

We saw more snakes this year than on any previous trip, this Yellow Bellied Sand Snake was spotted by out ranger on an early morning bush walk from tena Tena.

A fast-moving, slender snake that averages 70 cm – 1 m. This snake is active during the day and is without doubt one of the fastest snakes (though early in the morning this example was totally stationary. It is fond of basking but will move off rapidly and if there is a shrub or tree close by it may climb to avoid detection. Like some of the other snakes in the genus Psammophis, it will spin if caught by the tail and snap a piece off.

Sand snakes, Grass snakes and Skaapstekers can be very difficult to distinguish from one another – always check the distribution when attempting to identify one of these snakes.

The Western Yellow-bellied Sand snake feeds on lizards, frogs, rodents, small birds and other snakes.

The venom of this snake is very mild and has no real effect on humans.

Lagoon sunset

The rains this year have left much of South luangwa wetter than we've seen previously and many of the dry lagoons we're familiar with were transformed this year by abundant water.

The combination of water and warm sunsets offers even an average photographer like me an easy opportunity for a striking picture.

Dogs on alert

On a game drive from Tena Tena bush camp we found these two wild dogs. Probably separated from the rest of the pack we watched them hunting together.

After losing sight of them we carried on with our drive only to see one of them chasing a Puku. To see a dog hunting at full speed is heart stopping.

Wild dog have an 80% success rate with hunts - here though the Puku took it's chances by leaping into a lagoon, preferring the chance a croc might be waiting to the certainty of the dog. A throw of the dice that this time paid off.

Who said Hyena aren't cute?

Whilst out on our game drive to the stork colony we encountered a mother Hyena with a pup.

Eventually they retreated to the den, but the cautious yet curious pup couldn't help take a look at the strange big beast that had followed them.

The Stork colony

No visit to Tena Tena is complete without a trip North to the Stork colony.

Here the Yellow Billed Storks have made a breeding colony in the Nsefu sector of the park, with trees white with their droppings as though covered in snow.

The area has featured in many wildlife documentaries, including one about a Leopard who had specialised in using the gullies acros the area as cover for hunting.

It's a special place. 

Tena Tena breakfast

In the early half light of dawn breakfast at Tena Tena bush camp is taken on the sand overlooking the main Luangwa river.

IMHO the best place in the world for breakfast.

Everything one would expect in a four star hotel - just served around a fire on camping chairs - the toast made on a charcoal grill and eggs however you want them cooked al-fresco.

My personal favourite - white toast with Marmite and two fried eggs - breakfast of champions before a game drive.

Python by torchlight

People often ask when they hear of our passion for African safari holidays "But what about the snakes - aren't you scared?".

The truth is we've only been lucky enough to see snakes in the wild a handful of times in more than 25 trips.

Here was a good spot - a young Python (only about 2m ) out hunting early in the evening, caught in the spotlight from our vehicle.

It was to be one of three snake sightings in the trip, more than in any other we've had, perhaps the product of some good rains earlier in the year which would have helped prey species thrive and thus the snakes.

Sundowners by the river

One wonderful African safari tradition is the "Sundowner".

For us, the traditional G&T, but whatever takes your fancy - and usually served with home made snacks .

The beauty of South Luangwa is that Sundowners are often taken overlooking the River, accompanied by the most breathtaking sunsets across the water, the sound of Hippo calling and birds finding their evening roosts.

Lamp

Views of Three Rivers Bush Camp

Cute Chameleon

This little fella had no problem whatsoever with climbing onto the hand of our guide during a night drive.

More to the point our guide had no problem with the Chameleon which is an animal rich in folklore and shunned by many in Africa.

Perhaps because it is predominantly seen at night, perhaps because of its ability to change colour the Chameleon is surrounded by myths and folktales many of which present it as an evil spirit.

Not a great deal of evil in this little one I suggest.

Safari silhouette

Sundowners overlooking the Luangwa River

Lazy evening Leopard

The classic image of Leopard is a cat dangling over a tree branch. Here we were lucky to find a Leopard near Three Rivers Camp who was one of the most photogenic we've ever come across - so placid and relaxed.

Across the river

A quick ferry they said.

Nothing to worry about they said.


And they were right - but only after a protective mother Hippo had been scared off.

From Three Rivers we crossed the Luangwa to take a bush walk.

Pel's Fishing Owl

Not the best photograph I'll be the first to admit, but included in the blog as this was a first sighting for us of Pel's Fishing Owl.

The Pel's Fishing Owl is the second largest owl in Africa. It feeds almost exclusively on fish and lives in dense forests near rivers. They are shy and are therefore seldom seen, so seeing one is always a thrilling event.

The Pel's Fishing Owl for many birders (we are not particularly birders by the way) is like the Holy Grail and it appears on many birding enthusiasts "top 10 to seek before I die lists". 

The birds are uncommon and often evasive, avoiding disturbance. They live in riverine forest and prefer to perch high among the thick foliage. They often hunt at night and are most active and vocal in the hour before dawn. The one we saw was in just this type of habitat - not that we would have seen it without the help of the sharp eyes of our guide at Three Rivers Bush Camp, Jebbez.

It is the second largest owl that occurs in Africa. They are a lovely ginger brown to russet colour and have black spots on both their wings and bellies. They have a rounded head and large black eyes like deep pools of pitch. They lack the soft flight feathers of other owls as stealth is not necessary for snatching their underwater prey.

They also lack the characteristic facial disks of many owls. This disc is believed to help with hearing, and as the owl's prey lives underwater, the owls seem to have evolved without this feature. They have a haunting, chilling call, which has been likened to someone calling up from the bottom of a well. Their cries can be heard over a kilometre away.

Anyone seen where all the bees have gone?

A pair of Bee eaters

Stork study

Yellow Billed Stork

Gone fishing

This trip was certainly the Yellow Billed Stork holiday. 

Here, near the Three rivers Bush Camp, they gathered in their hundreds to fish out the numerous channels.

Every now and again one would catch a cat fish prompting an outburst of flapping as others tried to get the catch of it.

Sunset colour

Ele family

One giant leap ...

A Puku jumps one of the many channels near the Three Rivers Bush Camp

Three Rivers Bush Camp

Our third camp for this holiday was Three rivers Bush Camp, run by Kafunta Safaris.

With rustic rondelles featuring decks overlooking wildlife viewing and "star beds where you can sleep on a platform with nothing above you but a mosquito net this certainly packs in the style.

Another super sunset

Elegance in the bush

The South Luangwa national park is the place to see Leopard. Normally elusive here they are likely to be seen more often than the Lion of the park.

To watch these powerful cats move silently through the bush early in the morning or into the evening is always a privilege.

Sacred Ibis

The African Sacred Ibis is a wading bird that belongs to the family Threskiornithidae which found near shores and marshes throughout Africa, including extensively in the South Luangwa valley.

A distinctive large wading bird it measures 75 centimetres (30 inches) in length and weighs 1.35 kilograms (3 pounds), with a wingspan of 112 – 124 centimetres (44 – 49 inches).

The plumage of the sacred ibis is mainly white in colour with black plumes on its lower back. Its small head and slender, curved neck are also black and practically bald. The sacred ibis has small black eyes and a long, slender, downward curved bill which is used to probe into sand and mud in shallow water or in grass and soil when foraging.

The legs of the sacred ibis are long and black and its feet are partially webbed like most wading birds. When in flight, the wing tips of the primary flight feathers are black which display a black border to the rear of the white wings.

In ancient Egypt he Ibis was sacred to and associated with Thoth the God of wisdom and writing. Thoth was often represented in the form of a man's body with the head of the Ibis and was the patron of the educated scribes who were responsible for the administration of the country. 

As a sacred animal the Ibis on death was embalmed and put inside the hollow body of a carved figure of the bird. Alternatively, the mummified remains were placed in pottery jars and deposited in vast underground galleries. Hundreds of thousands of such burials have been discovered at Sakkara, near Memphis the ancient capital of Egypt.

It's a tough life

The Hyena gets a bad rap in my opinion. Yes they may be scarred, but I love their faces and their clan system is fascinating. What would an african safari night be without the whooping of these dustmen of the bush?

Ebony Grove

Across the South Luangwa park there are a number of Ebony groves where these majestic trees ceat a dappled mosaic of light on the ground under the canopy.

Cool and shady, often with water, these groves are popular with Baboons.

Punk Zebra

Close to the action

Bush walks aren't usually the opportunity to see game - you take a vehicle for that. But here, in South Luangwa with the expert guides camps provide, even a walk can bring you into close contact with game.

Here we encountered a group of Giraffe, who, with our calm and quiet approach stood until we were less than 100m away - and even then they simply sauntered off just a few metres to maintain their comfort distance.